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The Journey Begins in India

In a world where every color tells a story, madder (Rubia tinctoria) stands out as a humble root with a rich history. Its journey begins in India, where it is known as Manjistha. For centuries, Indian artisans have used it to create vibrant shades of red, pink, and orange, adorning saris and royal fabrics. The rich crimson hues and earthy terracottas it produces captivated European merchants, paving the way for a flourishing trade.

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A Global Influence

Over time, madder spread beyond India. Madder-dyed fabrics have been found in Egyptian mummies, and Greek historian Herodotus noted its use by Libyan women. In France, during the 18th century, agronomist Jean Althen innovated the cultivation of madder, transforming it into a symbol of luxury.

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The Red of the French Army

In 1829, madder also made its mark on military history when French soldiers donned bright red trousers, embodying national pride. However, the visibility of this color on the battlefield during World War I led to a shift toward blue uniforms.

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A Modern Revival

Today, enthusiasts like Parmeet cultivate this plant using traditional methods, creating dyes that produce a spectrum of colors ranging from deep reds and warm oranges to earthy terracottas, connecting Indian artisanal heritage to French textile history.

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Explore the Exhibition

As you walk through this exhibition, let yourself be carried away by madder’s journey—from Indian saris to battlefields. To learn more, visit the Musée de l'Impression sur Étoffes in Mulhouse, which houses the richest collection of "indiennes" in France. Don't miss the La Route des Indes exhibition, presented by the Mairie de Bordeaux, which highlights these artistic exchanges.

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Learn More

To dive deeper into the history of madder:

• History of Madder Dyeing in India (Indian Textiles)  

• Madder Dye and French Military Uniforms (Military History Online)